Roads of Baja

A few things we’ve learned about Baja roads: always assume the road is rougher than it is described to you; Toyota corollas have the ability to be excellent off-road vehicles; llanteras (tire repair) are five times as common as gas stations; washboards and rocks are no match for semis; buses take priority over on-coming traffic … More Roads of Baja

We come, we go

“Podemos alquilar kayaks?” I ask as I approach the old man under the sign that says “Se renta kayaks.” “Si,” he replies. He’s sitting on his sand porch under a blue tarp. It appears that he lives with his wife in a nearby tow-behind trailer that may not have moved in a decade. He’s wrinkled around … More We come, we go

The Happy Ruster

One of the most magical parts of traveling is the people. We’ve met Canadians, Idahoans, Floridians, Germans, Argentineans and one happy ruster from Ejido Bonfil. Everyone we meet adds a new texture to our experience, adding a different perspective or outlook on the world. If we were living just the two of us in the … More The Happy Ruster

Peeling Away

We travel south. The layers peel away. They don’t shed easily. There’s resistance, a clinging to the tethers that bind. They’re strong cordage—these inventions to keep busy, applicable, and relevant. I can’t loose them all at once, I’d be lost to the wind, scattered at sea. But to cut one at a time leaves a … More Peeling Away

El Viento Oeste

It started with a wisp, a tug at the canvas. By morning it was bumping us around like a pinball on the road. Now it’s kept us holed up in Bahia San Luis Gonzaga, as beautiful a place as you could hope to be holed up in. It is not El Norte,the usual winter wind … More El Viento Oeste

A Visitor

“There’s something out there!” I exclaim, rolling the door shut behind me. Paige, slightly amused at the role reversal, raises her eyebrows. “No, I heard something.” “Nick, are you serious?” She’s not amused anymore because she knows I’m serious. Something was moving in the dark. I shine a light onto the moonscape of black rock … More A Visitor

The Way Through

There was gold in the ground and Charles H. Spencer wanted it. The  problem was the coal to power the steam engines to extract the gold was in Warm Creek Canyon thirty miles away. To get there on foot Spencer had to find a way out of the Grand Canyon to the northeast from Lees … More The Way Through

Steps in the Mud

“Are you going to be grumpy all day?” Paige asks, trying to prod me out of my teenage mope. “Maybe,” I respond with a waver of a smile. I can’t write more about the blooming lotuses of this trip without talking about some of the mud. I step in it everyday. It likes to form … More Steps in the Mud